The research paper entitled “Architectural Monuments in Padmanabhapuram” represents an attempt to analyse and discuss the architectural features of Padmanabhapuram Palace, Fort and Temples. The arguments are based on archaeological, literary and secondary sources as well as evidence gathered through the field study carried out at Padmanabhapuram. Padmanabhapuram is situated at the Kalkulam taluk of present Kanyakumari district in Tamilnadu. It is located within two kms to the east of Thuckalay on the Nagercoil and Thiruvananthapuram road. It was the capital of the erstwhile Travancore State and has been a Centre of political and social activities.
The Padmanabhapuram Palace is a testimony to the greatness of the rulers and architectural beauty. The full fledged facilities available in the Palace premises surrounded by the Fort that stands the test of the time reflect the life style of the Travancore Kings. Its original name was Kalkulam. This fact has a reference in an inscription dated 753 Kollam Era (1578).1 The inscription asserts that this place was known as Kalkulam before it was called Padmanabhapuram. It was Maharaja Marthanda Varma, the founder of modern Travancore, who annexed more territories and dedicated the entire state of Travancore to Lord Padmanabha and changed the old name Kalkulam to Padmanabhapuram. This historical episode is inscribed in the Padmanabhapuram inscription of 925 M.E. (1750 AD.).2 There are two other names to this palace, namely. Perumal Palace and the Valiyakoyikkal Palace.3
The exact year of construction is disputable. M.K. Devassy claims that the palace was built in 1335 AD4. Records indicate that the palace and the Fort around it were built in 1600 AD.5 The palace extends to an area of six acres and a Fort surrounds this majestic building. The surrounding wall, which was originally built of mud, encloses one hundred and eighty six acres of land.6 When Maharaja Marthanda Varma took possession of the palace, he renovated it and constructed a square forificaton.7 The walls were built of granite slabs under the supervision of a reputed architect, Taikkattu Nampuri. The King built the wall thirty feet high.8
Some notable buildings in the palace campus are the Darpakulangara palace, otherwise called Thalaikottaram (mother palace), Poomukham, the Clock Tower, the Navaratri Mandapam and Uttupura, the Uppirika Mallika (storeyed building). It seems that the other edifices were built later, but the Thaikottataram should have been the original palace. The Manthrasala (Council Chamber) is just above the Poomukham where the King met his advisers to discuss important matters.9 All the buildings within the palace are built in the traditional style of Malabar architecture with gables, dormer windows and long corridors, the earliest of the structures being dated about 1335 AD.10 On account of the wood carvings, the wall paintings, unique sculpture and architecture, the palace has become very popular among students of art and architecture and historians alike.
The Padmanabhapuram Palace is a feat in engineering because of its compactness. It is an outstanding model of the present call given by modern architects about economy in the utility of space and efficiency in the usage of rooms and sturdiness of structure. As the Padmanabhapuram Palace was built not in a day, a survey of the various structures in the palace would reveal the changing architectural features across many epochs of Travancore history. The progress of time can be seen in the changing style of architecture. J.H. Cousins who made a systematic study of Travancore architecture observes that the Padmanabhapuram Palace is an important subject for students of art and architecture.11
The Padmanabhapuram Fort still speaks of the might of the past rulers and its architectural grandeur still glorifies the Padmanabhapuram royal heritage. The imposing presence of the Fort adds grandeur to the elegance and grace of the palace. The Padmanabhapuram Fort is a square fortification that surrounds the Padmanabhapuram palace. Its circumference is two and half miles. The area of the ground that falls within the Fortification is about 186 ¼ acres.12 The walls of the Fort are three feet thick and built of granite upto eight feet of the parapets, the remaining portion being laterite.13 There are four main bastions built at the four corners of the Fort. They are more or less square in size and shape. The height of the walls varies according to the level of the ground, the highest elevation being twenty five feet and the lowest fifteen feet. The parapets are three feet high through out. Four gate ways, one on each wall form main entrances to this Fort. There are also some other smaller gateways. The Fort is constructed to defend the palace and the celebrated temples.14 Within the Fort there runs a tunnel which goes upto Charode which is two kilometres away from the Fort. The secret tunnel was used by the royal family for escaping at the time of danger from the attacks of chieftains and the invasions of foreigners.15 Rather than seeing the tunnel as a mere instrument of escape during emergency, the labour and planning behind the subtle underground structure needs to be recognized.
According to the Mudaliyar manuscript of Azhakiapandiyapuram, both Padmanabhapuram and Udayagiri Forts were planned in 776 M.E. (1601 AD).16 It says that “A palace with Fort in mud and with trenches was built at Padmanabhapuram in the Kollam Era 776 (1601 AD).17 However, the Fort attained a better status during the rule of Marthanda Varma and he reconstructed the old Fort into a granite Fort in 1745 AD.18 The present appearance and elegance of the Fort blossomed into full prominence in the last phase of the construction work done during his reign. So much royal attention towards the Fort down the ages was paid mainly due to the fact that it was the capital city of the Travancore state. Now the Fort has lost its vibrant activities and is reduced to a historical monument that tells the tale of the regal past.
As religion is a vital force in India culture, the Padmanabhapuram Fort proudly has two famous temples, one dedicated to Siva and other to Rama, representing Saivism and Vaishnavism respectively. The architectural style of these temples is a blend of Dravidian and Malabar culture.19 Besides these two temples, the Fort has a number of other temples. One can see twelve Siva temples in and around the Fort. During ‘Sivaratri’ festival, a ritual called ‘Sivalaya Ottam’ performed between these temples is an interesting feature. On the south-western side of the Fort stands the temple of Neelakantaswamy for Siva and its architecture resembles the Dravidian style.20 The northern side of the Fort has a Ramasamy temple and it is purely in the Malabar style.
The Padmanabhapuram Palace and Fort reflect the personal ambitions and achievements of the rulers and temples prove their attitude towards their spiritual development. These architectural monuments manifest the aspirations and achievements of the rulers of Padmanabhapuram. Padmanabhapuram, the capital city of Travancore royal house is a proud centre of art and architecture and this is one of the true yardsticks to measure the greatness of any rule.
References
1. Travancore Archaeological Series, Vol. II, Trivandrum, 1925, p. 126.
2. Ibid, Vol. part 1, p. 26.
3. Kunju, Ibrahim A.P., Rise of Travancore, Trivandrum, 1976, p. 120.
4. Devassay, M.K., ‘Census of India’, 1961, Vol. VII, Part VII-A, Trivandrum, 1964, p. 173. Refer also Velu Pillai, T.K, Travancore State Manual, Vol. IV, Trivandrum, 1945, p. 522.
5. Pillai, Desi Kavinayagam., ‘Ancient Forts at Kalkulam and Udayagiri’, Kerala Society Papers, Series, 6, Trivandrum, 1928 – 33, p. 134.
6. Aiya, Nagam, V., The Travancore State Manual, Vol. I, Trivandrum, 1906, p. 202.
7. Sreedhara Menon, A., Kerala District Gazetteers, Trivandrum, 1962, p. 20.
8. Kunju, Ibrahim, A.P., Op.cit., p. 120.
9. Devassy, M.K., Op.cit., p. 173.
10. Sreedhara,Menon A; A Cultural Heritage of Kerala, An Introduction, Cochin, 1978, p. 33.
11. Cousins, J.H ., Padmanabhapuram Palace, a Guide Book, Trivandrum, 1946, p. 2.
12. Administration Report of Archaeological Department, 1110 M.E., p.5.
13. Nayam, Aiya, V., Op.cit., Vol. I, p. 203.
14. Field Study, 17th August 2005.
15. Gilchrist, Emily, Travancore, A Guide Book for the Visitor, Madras, 1933, p. 202.
16. Kerala Society Papers, Vol. I, Series 6, p. 313.
17. A.R.A.D., 1110 M.E., p. 5.
18. Monument Study Series, No. 1, Nagercoil 1979, p. 2.
19. A.R.A.D., 1111 M.E.,p. 7.
20. Padmanabhan, S., Temples in Kanyakumari District, Nagercoil, 1970, p. 81.
Dr. N. MOHAMED HUSAIN
Reader and Head
Dept. of History and Tourism, Sadakathullah Appa College, Tirunelveli
Source: Journal of Indian History and Culture, September 2009, Sixteenth Issue
